04 April 2024

What To Expect From Watches and Wonders 2024

By James Sampson

It’s that time of year again. Although we could be forgiven for thinking we are still in the grips of winter, rain howling and the temperature gauge stubbornly refusing to budge northwards, we’re well into March and in the watch world it can only mean one thing: the preeminent luxury watch show of the year, Watches and Wonders Geneva is right around the corner.

From the 9th to 15th April over fifty of the worlds top horology brands will showcase their first new releases for 2024. Despite some brands introducing variants throughout the year, including Rolex’s new Date-Date variant to mark the 2024 Academy Awards, Watches and Wonders is where the majority of releases will be unveiled. Geneva will be descended upon by eager watch enthusiasts and industry members alike to get their first look at the newest releases. 

Photos: Watch Gecko

The convention has been around for over a decade, with the demise of Basel World around Covid. Watches and Wonders is now the watch worlds premier watch show. Although a few brands notably don’t participate, Richard Mille, Audemars Piguet and F.P. Journe to name a few, it doesn’t dampen the excitement leading up to the event each year. The event this year will be held at Geneva’s Halles de Palexpo - the exhibition and event centre close to the airport. The first 4 days of the show are reserved for industry members, boutique staff and a selection of the boutiques best clientele, while the long weekend is open to all.

What can we expect from the show? 

Truthfully no one knows. There are always rumours that will circulate about what could get discontinued and what will be released by each brand as people speculate. Articles showcasing grainy images of ‘confirmed’ new releases always do the rounds in the run up to the event, particularly centred around Rolex. Some of these rumours turn out to be true and others don’t. This year the Rolex GMT-Master II ‘Pepsi’ is the centre of attention with many speculating Rolex’s difficulty when producing and servicing the bezel will cause it to be removed all together. In recent months we have seen a sharp rise in demand for Pepsi’s as collectors look to buy them before they get discontinued. Another Rolex in the frame is the Yacht-Master II line-up. A watch that has lost some popularity over recent years due to its case size and price. It will not be long before the truth reveals itself and the speculation dies down for a few more months. 

Thierry Stern, the Patek Philippe president, has promised a new collection for 2024. One that Patek collectors would be thrilled to see and has understandably created anticipation around what design direction they might take. A new sports model line up to add to the success of the Nautilus and Aquanaut models? Or will they keep it more traditional, in line with their classical models like the Calatrava. All being true, this would be the first new line up from the famed house in 25 years! These are all rumours for now but will Patek be the brand to watch in 2024?

Other notable brands exhibiting are A. Lange & Söhne and Vacheron Constantin. Both are brands we deal with on a regular basis and love what the brands have created, so are keenly looking forward to what 2024 has to offer! Tag Heuer has already revealed a sneak peak at this years new releases at the Miami LVMH watch week with retro designs and bold colours on display. 

Whomever it comes from we are hoping for some real innovation, not just new dial variants. Innovation that will give the industry a boost and bring a surge of interest back into what has been a bumpy road for the luxury watch market over the past two years. One that all of the exhibitors are more than capable of doing and we at Onaro are looking forward to seeing first hand as we will be at the show for the first time, providing news and opinions on all the new releases. Stay tuned!

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